The way to ARS: Searching for ideas

In Bamako, the first thing that greets you is the warmth. The unbelievable heat. Then, the sounds and thereafter the colours. This was the first ARS 11 planning trip to Africa.

The plane landed bouncingly along the uneven runway in Bamako on a night in November. We got our first taste of the bumpy streets in the plane, though we did not understand it yet.

Everyone was interested in us. Where are you from? Finland? Europe du Nord, OK, somewhere thereabouts. The taxi drivers burst into laughter when they heard that the first snow had already fallen in Finland.

Laughter, noise, and music
Suddenly, the world was full of sounds. Constant noise of the traffic, honking of the horns, and lots of talking, shouting, laughter, and music. I can still hear the rhythm of the local dominant language Bambara in my ears. Everybody seemed to be on his or her way to sell something somewhere. An endless flow of people, mopeds, cars, and buses covered the bridge leading to the city from the early morning.

Women carried enormous banana clusters on their heads in their colourful clothing. Children travelled along on a sling. I was amazed at how the locals managed to keep their clothes so perfectly smooth and creaseless in the heat.

Electric atmosphere
The National Museum of Mali was the central location of the Bamako Photography Biennale. The official opening of the event and the Frontiers exhibition took place in the museum park. The key speaker in the prestigious event was the Prime Minister of Mali. As he arrived, the orchestra and the choir broke into a celebratory song.

The next big opening took place in the Culture Palace and the following ones at the Art School’s Gallery, the City Museum of Bamako, and the French Cultural Centre. It was crucial to meet the artists in person. The best conversations took place in the charming bars of Bamako.

Unforgettable encounters
The following night, I met a local cultural producer Igo, who invited me to a party held in the yard of a famous outsider artist Ansel from Bamako. Just finding the place was an adventure in itself.

Naturally, there was music and dance. We also saw the dancers of the world-famous choreographer/ dancer Kettly Noël. Their movement was awe-inspiring. A simple, improvised piece was the most interesting contemporary dance.

The next day, Igo took us guests to see Noël’s dance academy. The roots of the school are in Western contemporary dance, but the African reality is present in the choreographies.

A possible world
The last day and time to head home. I take a taxi towards the National Museum of Mali. On the wall there is a writing: un autre monde est possible, another world is possible. I bring hope home with me.

Arja Miller

The visit took place in November 2009. Bamako Biennale is one of the most important contemporary art events in Africa. Another biennale dedicated to contemporary art is the Dak’Art in Senegal.
www.rencontres-bamako.com
www.biennaledakar.org